Technology at Geneseo Community School District 228
So perhaps my iPhone 4s is no longer operational and am awaiting a new phone, which may not arrive for a couple more weeks. To fill in the gaps in between I took my original AT&T iPhone and activated it using a GoPhone Sim Card. No Jailbreak is needed and you can do from the phone and from a computer with web access (or Phone connected via Wifi). Here is what worked for me.
1. Buy a 15$ GoPhone generic Samsung flip phone from Wal-Mart. I bought ATT because that is what the original iPhone (2007) was.
2. Open the GoPhone and discard the phone and keep the Sim card (looks like a credit card with a little chip that pops out).
3. Join your iPhone to Wifi and download this file. Mobile Config (For US AT&T carriers only)
Your phone will ask you to install the settings, just click install and choose okay.
4. Now put in the SIM card into the older iPhone (Works with Original iPhone, iPhone3g and iPhone 3gs -with older iOS)
5. Now follow the GoPhone instructions and activate the phone but using the iPhone and using the web to activate instead of the phone.
You will find your SIM number on the card that came with the GoPhone.
You will find the IMEI number on your iPhone under | Settings | General | About – then scroll down to IMEI.
6. Thats it now just save the phone number and put this into your iPhone settings, Settings | Phone | My Number
7. Make sure you add money to your go phone account, can do it through the phone if you reboot it, or can also put money on account via the web.
After you have money on the account, reboot the phone or just wait few minutes and your iPhone is now a GoPhone.
Note: There is no need to jailbreak or modify your phone whatsoever.
Note: Do not activate the GoPhone Sim in the generic flip phone that comes with the package. If you do the SIM gets locked to that phone for 6 months and will not work. You must activate the SIM first with the iPhone or go to AT&T and get a new SIM.
This summer I migrated two servers to Linux based platforms running on Dell PowerEdge R210′s. Previously a G5 Xserve was running our mail server for the last 7 years and it has done a great job. Kerio no longer supports the PPC based architecture meaning no more software updates. In addition the age of the machine itself in terms of hardware meant ready for a change. Kerio now has a true 64 bit version of their software and supports Linux natively.
Kerio Running On Ubuntu 64bit
The migration process was smooth although time consuming, with over 400 active email accounts and 300 gigs of information simply copying the info took well over 5 hours. The configuration files are for the most part interchangeable and could simply copy from old server to the new with just some minor changes to file paths. Mac uses /usr/local/kerio and Linux uses /opt/kerio.
The new version of Kerio supports jabber protocol and would like to enable this having the server handle all instant messaging, video chats and email.
In a similar move I setup another server which hosts all staff websites and it running latest version of Apache, PHP. The Windows server that these sites were previously on was 32 bit based and was starting to max out the RAM limit of 3.5Gigs. PAE extension was possible but simply running on a dedicated 64 bit server with less overhead seemed a better path. Moving the information was pretty slick in this case as well (200 gigs of website data, 70 websites). The only trouble here was correcting URL pathnames to case sensitivity (Windows not case sensitive, all flavors of Linux are case sensitive).
Both Servers are R210 Dell PowerEdge running a RAID 1 configuration with Western Digital SE4 drives. Plan to continue to reduce the number of Microsoft based servers with Linux.
So I just finished replacing iPhone 4S screen a couple weeks ago. Just like that I was walking and literally accidentally tossed it onto the pavement and cracked it again. My white and black cow phone did not last long.
This time I replaced the back and front screen with blue covered parts off of amazon for 35$. Since this is screen number 3 I thought I would stick with just the parts and focus on cheap.
Blue phone works great .. Repair is a lengthy process.
Okay so the iPad 3 and iPad 4 have exceelent displays with great resolution. They are also much more fragile then the original iPad 1 and crack easily from a drop here or there. After fixing my iPhone 4S display I thought the screen repair on the iPad 3 and 4 would be a huge undertaking. Actually it is much easier then the iPhone the hardest part is simply removing the screen.
I went home and grabbed my wife’s hair dryer and used this to heat up the edges of the units. Using a swiss amy pocket knife and iSesame tools included in my screen repair kit the glass eventually was removed. The adhesive holding the screen on these units is pretty tough and I found myself scrapping bits of glass here and there. On the bottom left hand corner you will find the cable the connects the digitizer to the main board of the machine.
Removing screen with Hair Dryer and Knife
Removing Screen iSesame
With the screen/digitizer removed you need to simply remove the Retina Display underneath with a small Phillips. With the Retina Display removed you will see where the ribbon cables connect and using the plastic splunger can flip open the latches and pull out the cables removing both the screen/digitizer and retina display.
Removing Ribbon Cables
With everything removed Can now simply plugin in new screen and carefully reattach. This is easy for the iPad 3 but with the iPad 4 you have one extra step. The iPad 4′s button is different and you must change out the button or use a new ribbon cable. I used the screen repair kits from iCracked.com. Also used one of the tear down videos on youtube from same company. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fJkMXQOKuU
When I go to replace another iPad screen I will likely just order the part itself and not the kit, saving 30-40$. The tools provided in the kit are good and can be easily reused.
I say 45-60 minutes is a reasonable expectation of time it takes to repair.
Whats left of the old screens
Fixed – iPad 3 and iPad 4
So my iPhone 4s got a bit smashed. To repair from apple is 200$ so I decided to buy a kit from iCracked on Amazon for 60$. The kits originally was 100$ but at reduced price of 60$ I thought worth the repair effort.
First off this is the most nicely packaged kits I have seen, you get the new screen and digitizer, a protective sticker pre-attached, a bumper, decent instructions, tool set to remove the strange size micro screws and a polishing cloth. I repaired an 3GS screen once and I all I got was literally the repair part and then used youtube to help dismantle the phone.
The repair kit does its best attempt to make this as painless as possible but unfortunately the job is still quite involved. The instructions said allow 45 minutes for the repair, I would say allow at least 90 minutes for the repair. You literally must remove everything to get to the screen replacement, the logic board, the camera, the speakers, antenna wires, EMF shield, connectors, grounding clips (a little tricky), etc.
The only complain I had with the process besides the optimistic time for the repair was the lack of a flat head screw driver. There are two flat head screws in the iPhone that must be removed and this is the one tool left out of the kit, I happened to have a small flathead so no big deal but could have been included in the tool kit.
The size of the components is unbelievably small.
MotherBoard with CPU removed.
I liked how on the instructions were place holders to put screws and parts as you remove, making reassembly much easier.
The repair worked great except for a minor detail. I ordered a white front plate instead of black and the kit does not come with a new button. The result is now my children only refer to it as the cow phone. With the relatively positive experience with this kit if I can find good deal with same kit for an iPad 3 will also give it a shot at fixing.
Cow Phone Repaired
The other day a storm came through and knocked power out for a good 8-12 minutes. Just long enough to get our server stack at the High School to shutdown. Anyways most servers powered back up okay but our Apache webserver/ MySQL server did a disk check and on reboot the MySql daemon failed to start. Looking into the logs it shows a message that the Innodb module failed to initialize and thus the mysql process crashes.
Looking into the specific mysql logs I find that this module fails because it the file innodb1 is corrupt. This is not good as this file holds the index and information for all databases on the server (300) and is used frequently. The easiest fix would be to restore a backup but in my case I showed the latest backup being May 5, 2013 and there has been two full weeks worth of activity since then.
To save all data and not relay on older backup need to try and force a recovery of InnoDB. According to MySQL documentation you can force a recovery by restarting the MySQL service/daemon after adding a line to its configuration.
[mysqld] innodb_force_recovery = 4
Under the mysqld section of the config file you can add innodb_force_recovery = 0 – 6.
Levels 1-4 are pretty safe as most data is preserved. Setting the level to 5 or 6 gets a bit more risky as you could lose some data.
In my case levels 1-5 did not good and MySQL refused to run. On force recovery level 6 the MySQL did work and all databases were up and running. After checking that databases (Spot checked about 50) and verifying no information lost, next step is to dump or backup all of the databases. When MySQL is in a force recovery mode other then 0, the databases are locked and you are unable to add information. You can however dump all the data as a SQL file export and then reimport the data to clean database.
Here I used PhpMyAdmin to select about 1/3 of the databases at a time. I learned the hardway to not select the Information Schema or MySQL database since if you do this, you cannot use PhpMyAdmin to restore your databases as it will fail on these two.
Do not select Information Schema or MySQL if restoring to same database server
With a backup of all databases minus these two safe and ready, now ready to reset MySQL and fix corruption.
My method: First make sure have backup, next stop the MySQL process running. Change the MySQL config file and set the innodb_force_recovery = 0 to zero then delete the innodb log files and innodb file itself(
iblogfile1 is a InnoDB logfile. ). Then delete (DROP all Databases except for MySQL and Information Schema).
Now restart MySQL and a new InnoDB and logfiles will be generated and you will have a working MySQL on recovery level 0 with no data. Now using PhpMyAdmin go to Import and Import all the databases back in MySQL and am back up and running. This process worked for me and no data was lost.
This afternoon I started a process of making 300 exact copies on a 2 gig flash drive. To copy a single disk at a time on Mac just using Finder was around 10 minutes. So at that rate we have 300 x 10 = 3000 minutes or 50 hours of copying. Not really going to work, I tried a few google searches for copying multiple disk images to USB on a mac and did not really find anything that would work quickly and efficient with USB disks. On the PC side there is a free application called imageUSB, program works perfect and does what it says.
Here simply created a image of the a perfect finished flash disk, then using multiple USB hubs plugin disk and whoalah now I can do 32 at a time at 12 minutes per copy cycle. This reduces total time to make 300 copies to just around 2 hours.
Using generic sub 15$ dollar 10 port usb hubs I setup two PC’s doing 11 on a laptop and 21 on a Desktop. This setup with two machines offset a bit gave me time to plug and unplug usb thumb drives. If you ever need to mass duplicate thumb drives ImageUSB works great.
Mass Copying in Action
The HP LaserJet 4250 (4350) is a solid fast printer with a long lifespan and has a good price per print. There has been an unfortunate trend with many new laser printers that add wireless and new air print or cloud print options, which are nice, but at the same time shortchanging the more important price per page and toner capacity. The LaserJet 4250 can use a 42x cartridge with a yield of over 20,000 copies, this cartridge retails for 200$ on Amazon (not generic HP OEM) which if you quickly do the math works out to 1 cent per copy. The printers are relatively easy to repair with a fuser that snaps in and out and rollers that do the same. The printer debuted in 2002-2003 and all 5 in the district are still working well, going on a +10 year lifespan.
I ran across a 4250 that had a horrible loud clicking whenever the user printed. This machine still was able to print but the clicking was exremly and made you think the machine was about to break apart. Looking inside the machine I found a grey dust all over one side of the machine after removing the fuser. A closer look reveals that the black plastic gear that turns the fuser is made of a weaker plastic and all of the gears get ground off. This means the gear is slipping when turning the fuser and snapping against what is left of this gear. Good news is a quick google search and this gear was found for under 10 dollars along with a guide on how to remove. Here is the guide provided with the gear on how to replace, the instructions worked well except I ended up having to drill out the screw holding the gear axle and epoxy it back in place with the new gear.
New Fuser Gears (5-10$)
Bad Gear – Notice the ground plastic shaving from the old gear)
Location of screw that holds worn gear, I ended up drilling it out.
I came across a strange issue where I was noticing an extremely high number of UDP sessions using port 8612. This is not a normal port for UDP traffic or any traffic for that matter so I wondered what it was doing. Taking a closer look it appears that an old Cannon printer finder application had been loaded on teacher and some student machines in the past. This little utility was located in
/Library/Image Capture/Support/LegacyDeviceDiscoveryHelper/ directory. Turns out in this directory I found this app CIJScannerRegister.app. This worthless little app just sends out broadcast UDP packets everywhere looking for an old legacy model Canon network printer. Here is the deal, on our network we don’t have a single Canon printer, let along a canon network printer. What ends up happening is 100′s of machines just send out endless broadcast looking for nothing, this is just noise and added network congestion.
To Remove I simply used ARD (Apple Remote Desktop) and did two quick terminal commands with root access.
The first command simply kills the process which is causing the endless UDP broadcast packets. The second command deletes the application so cannot start again on a machine restart.
rm -rf /Library/Image\ Capture/Support/LegacyDeviceDiscoveryHelpers
(Sending Command to Multiple machines – Remember must use Root account)
This greatly reduced the load on our Core switch during peak times.
Core Switch | Cisco show processes CPU command
Prior to stopping this rogue app / our core switch would hit CPU utilizations of 82-84%, with this app and all the useless UDP packets being stopped the core immediately returns to a more normal activity.
(Normal CPU Utilization for Core switch)
Over the weekend I changed out a battery on a HP MSA20 Raid device that houses data for Windows Active Directory based student directories as well stores copies of backups for a few servers. The system has functioned well over the last couple years but the battery failure caused data corruption on the that RAID channel. Luckily this data was easily restored from another source but I find it a design defect that a battery would cause the Raid to corrupt. Most Raid devices simply revert to a slow data mode disabling the write cache when a battery fails, this allows the device to still function and will go back to full speed when a new battery is installed.
On the back on of the unit you will see an digital panel indicating an error with either a F1 (lower batter failed) F2 (upper battery failed, or F3 (both failed).
The upper batter can be replaced by powering off the unit and removing the left side array. Inside is a battery back that takes a bit of fiddling to get removed from its casing.
I had to remove the unit from the Rack and remove a screw which held the left side Raid channel intact.
After Replacing the unit I had to hold the Power Button on the back and wait as unit did full boot. Battery pack was around 25$ .